Planers can be used for a variety of tasks such as milling hardwood boards, slabs and decorations and decorations. Some of these tasks can be replicated by other machines, such as wide belt sanders or drum sanders. Once you understand the content of this article, you must have enough information to make an informed purchase decision.

At that time, the wood was simply cut into logs and allowed to air dry. If I want to be able to see the grain so that I can combine it with other tables, I have to plan it. If I want to plan this, I need a long plane and a lot of skills. With the invention of the planer, no one else needed to manually arrange the table and stop practicing in the name of “progress.” Today, most boards are delivered in predictable thickness, and some even tear in a straight line on the ridge, making carpenter easier. So why do you have a planer? Use planer knives for cutting.

The thickness of the brush will not end in the yard. Once the edges are stuck to the panel, the wood structure is still uneven and the panels are never perfectly aligned. Some things should be smooth from the rough board, for example, 1 7/8″ to its final thickness, such as 11⁄2″. As far as I know, there are two ways to do this: a sanding planer (wideband sander or drum sander) or a planer using a tool in the cutting head.

The combination of a planer and a planer would be ideal, but not always affordable. This is because the planer has a method of tearing loose grains. However, they remove material faster than sanders. The sander will never break, but it may take a lot of production time. Then, in an ideal world, money doesn’t matter, you can make most of the thickness with a planer and then finish the final thickness of the sander.

In fact, if you have money and need to work on an industrial scale, some machines have a brush head, followed by two or more sanding heads. I have had the opportunity to use such a machine for several years. A friendly competitor bought it for his woodworking business in Hawaii and shipped it from the mainland by sea.

This giant machine is made by Cemco and uses a three-phase motor of 880 volts. A 10 hp motor drives the belt and brush head, and each of the two grinding heads has a 60 hp electric motor. I can plan and polish a 52-inch wide panel. On the scale, he looks like a big industrial printer. My friend bought a sawmill and sent Hawaiian Koa wood to Oahu on the Big Island barge, where he built a dehumidifier next to the Cemco machine. In the end, he overcame economic difficulties and had to close his business. He found the buyer of the planer/sander, but had to send the big machine back to the mainland because no one in Hawaii had any use for the machine. Of course, I don’t know what your plan for the planer is, but I believe you won’t buy Cemco soon. This still leaves many sizes and types of planers to discuss.

The planer is brushed and assembled using the same cutting head. It looks like an assembler, but there is also a space for inserting wood under the grouting table. On the joining table, the plate is pushed in one direction above the cutting head and in the opposite direction of the planing machine below the cutting head. In fact, the hash cylinder rotates in only one direction. If the planer has the forming ability, it becomes a molding machine by simply removing the straight blades and replacing them with the forming blades. Use planer knives for cutting.

Most planers are built with a cutting head mounted on the top of the machine and on a metal workbench with rollers underneath the wood. The thickness is adjusted by raising and lowering the table relative to the previous cutting head. The wood is driven into the machine by a front roller or roller, which is typically serrated for better grip. The exit rolls are at the same height as the feed rolls, but they are generally weak, shiny and smooth. All rollers have large and expensive planers.

There are three types of cutting heads: straight, spiral and spiral. The terms “spiral” and helix are often used interchangeably, but this is not true. There is a strong similarity between the spiral and the spiral type, but as I will explain, there are differences. Straight knives are used in most trimmers in the cheapest range. Most straight knives are good, but they have two drawbacks: they are difficult to align one after the other and are more likely to tear after replacement.

The spiral head and the spiral head largely avoid these two problems. It has been found that a small set of small blades arranged helically around the cutting head minimizes chips. Spiral knives are usually square or rectangular and are sharp on the 2 or 4 side. They are mounted directly on the surface of the cutting head so they can be aligned without adjustment. To replace the cutting tool in the screw head, simply remove the screw that holds it in place. If the knife has an unused edge, you can rotate it to expose the new edge to the wood and replace the screw. You can buy each box of tools and replace them if necessary: ​​at some point, you can only replace those who have been smashed. At other times, all the knives became dull, and it was time to replace them.

The spiral cutting head is a spiral from the spiral head, the spiral brush head, the entire row of blades, interconnected by a flexible strip, to the head, in a row at a time. There are spiral tracks or slots in the head for positioning the cutting strip. There may be three or more tracks in the spiral cutter. Spiral cutters are more common than spiral heads.

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